1868: Finally! Fine dining in Jerusalem
1868
10 King David
02-622-2312
Rabbanut Jerusalem
reservations recommended
see comments below :
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Luckily, Ruth had given me some tips on what was good and what to bypass.
ReplyDeleteShe told me the house aperitif was yummy that we should definitely order
this, so I did. It was superb, made from inhouse cherry tomato jam, vanilla
vodka, lime juice and lychee syrup. I wouldn't have ordered it, had Ruth not
given me a headsup, since the ingredients sounded so strange. It was just
divine. I could have sipped that for hours and never tired of that perfect
meld of subtle flavors.
Dov had been wanting to try a certain single malt scotch, named Strathisla.
He decided that now was his chance. This was the kind of place in which they
were sure to have a well stocked collection of single malts. Sure enough,
they DID have Strathisla in their bar. Dov thought it more potent than any
single malt he'd tasted in the past. I thought it had a very clean taste, no
smoke, with a long finish that seemed to gather heat as time went on.
We were served a small loaf of whole wheat bread studded with California
walnuts, served with two dips; olive oil with balsamic vinegar, and a creamy
onion confit. Both were delicious, but I especially enjoyed the olive oil
and balsamic vinegar. I dipped the bread into that mixture, then into the
small saucer of fleur de sel that I was happy to see on the table when we
arrived. My chef son used to bring me some for my Shabbos table, but had
lost his source for this delicious, moist salt that comes from Brittany.
Later on, we had our waitress ask the chef where he bought the salt. He told
us that he buys it in large, restaurant-sized quantities and he didn't think
it was available in stores here, though I might try one of the better
organic food stores. He did offer to sell me a bag for 70 NIS. Dov nixed
that. Quel bummer...
The waitress asked if we would care for soft drinks. I ordered soda water,
thinking I'd be served Schweppes, and ended up with San Pellegrino. I was
scared these kind of touches were going to drive the bill way up, and hoped
I could curb my thirst as the meal went on. The San Pellegrino impressed the
hell out of my palate. I gave Dov a taste. Who'd've thunk water could be so
delish? This was beyond water.
We were then served an amuse gueule of eggplant cream in a tiny pastry puff.
Dov and I are not eggplant fans, but we felt that we must give it a chance.
It was very smoky. I think that someone who likes eggplant would have really
enjoyed it. All I can say is that I'm glad it was teensy, because it didn't
change my mind about that vegetable.
My appetizer was the most beautiful dish I've ever seen in my life.
Sandwiched between two portabella mushroom caps was a mixture of chunks of s
teak tartar, pear chunks and finely chopped, blanched pistachio nuts. This
was topped with a crown of baby beet leaves, rocket and watercress. Served
on a white plate, this pagoda-like creation was surrounded by a teensy,
perfect brunoise of carrot, beet, and turnip, sprinkled with black sesame
seeds. The appetizer tasted clean and refreshing. It felt just right; not
heavy or cloying. The plate was so pretty. I remarked to Dov that even the
aftermath (the plate after consumption of the food) was beautiful.
We were then served a beet and sage granita, which, though delicious, was
too peppery to be a proper palate cleanser.
My main course, as per Ruth's suggestion, was rack of lamb, medium rare. It
was perfectly cooked, pink as lamb should be. The meat was of a very high
calibre, not gamey at all, as lamb tends to be, and with a melting texture.
I closed my eyes at the first taste and commented, "I now understand G-d."
Dov cracked up.
Alongside my lamb were two OH MY G-D perfectly cooked, pencil thin asparagus
tips and two creamy shallots that tasted of wine and fresh thyme. I was not
as pleased with the other vegetables on my plate: a rolled, rose-shaped
potato creation that had been brushed with vanilla oil and two carrots cut
cocotte (oval) style that seemed much too salty even for someone like me who
LOVES salty food. The carrots had been described as cooked in lamb broth. I
thought the potatoes seemed dry, the texture somehow off. The taste seemed
off, too, I thought I could taste margarine.
All too soon, my lamb was all gone.
Dov had the striped bass. He said he had never had such delicious fish in
all his life. Dov loves fish. The fish was served with roasted garlic,
asparagus, new potatoes and roasted fennel prepared with fresh thyme and
white wine.
I tasted the new potatoes and the fennel. The fennel was amazing, and I
couldn't believe that he was going to leave it on his plate. I chided him
until he made all gone. The new potatoes were overcooked and mealy to my
taste. I have always been of the opinion that one can't ruin potatoes (I'm a
carb addict), but I have to say that the chef clearly does not understand
his spuds.
Once again, I followed Ruth's suggestion and ordered the chocolate trio
which consisted of 2 whiskey truffles rolled in Dutch cocoa, a chocolate and
chestnut fondant served with a tiny orange tuile, and a very cold mocha
cream piped between triangles of roasted coffee bean toffee. The waitress
had asked if she should bring an extra plate so Dov could share. He thought
he was too full and declined her offer. But guess who couldn't turn down
chocolate? He couldn't keep his hands off the fondant, and luckily it was in
a little saucer, thus portable. Dov finally said, "Just give it to me."
And I did.
I was struck by how each of the components of my dessert had a different,
just right temperature, how the textures and flavors had been orchestrated
just so.
All in all, I'd say there is a very gifted chef at work in the kitchen. This
was the best meal I have ever eaten in Israel. I am certain that I would
never have a kosher meal of this calibre in the States. During the evening,
I found myself eating as slowly as possible. I felt that the food deserved
my undivided attention and savor.
This was a meal the memory of which will keep me happy for a very long time.
Highly recommended*****
Varda
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